The Messolonghi-Aitolikos Lagoons National Park in Western Greece is a testament to the enduring legacy of traditional fishing, a practice deeply intertwined with the ingenuity of local communities and the sustainable management of natural resources.

This ancestral knowledge, vital to the region’s cultural identity, is now being meticulously recorded and preserved for future generations. For centuries, fishing here has been more than just a profession; it’s an art form with roots stretching back to medieval-Byzantine times and Venetian rule. Through collaborative efforts with local communities, this crucial element of the region’s heritage is being safeguarded.

Part of the history and life of our country

“The traditional fishing of the Messolonghi Lagoon is part of the history and life of our country. It is connected to the collective cultural consciousness of the inhabitants of the region and travels through the depths of time,” said Spilios Livanos, the former Minister of Rural Development and Food.

The lagoon itself is a vibrant ecosystem, a living organism teeming with rich flora and fauna. This biodiversity, which boasts 290 bird species and over 100 plant species, underpins the traditional fishing practices and exemplifies the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature. The rich natural environment is a cornerstone of professional activity, sustainable development, and the preservation of the traditional way of fishing.

Central to the unique fishing culture of the Messolonghi-Aitolikos lagoons are the distinctive methods and tools employed. The divaria, permanent fishing traps that double as natural fish farms, are a prime example. Across the lagoon complex, there are fourteen such facilities, eight of which are traditional and strategically located where the lagoon meets the sea.

Remarkably, the placement of these traditional divaria has remained unchanged since 1826, a testament to their enduring effectiveness and the deep-rooted knowledge of the local fishermen. These wetlands are highly productive habitats, attracting a vast array of aquatic organisms that are commercially exploited by the more than seven hundred active fishermen in the lagoon today.

Beyond the stationary divaria, other key elements of this traditional know-how include the Pelades, the iconic reed houses built on stilts above the water, which serve as both homes and operational bases for fishermen. The gaites, unique flat-bottomed wooden boats, are essential for navigating the shallow waters of the lagoon and are built using specific types of wood, reflecting a deep understanding of local resources.

Flathead grey mullet (Mugil cephalus) is the most famous fish species caught in these waters. This species is particularly important, as its roe is used to produce the famous Avgotaracho of Messolonghi, a protected designation of origin (PDO) delicacy.

Preserving traditional fishing in Greece’s lagoons

Despite the demanding conditions, generations of fishermen continue this tradition, making it an integral part of their historical and cultural heritage. This resilience was even a crucial factor in the survival of the people of Messolonghi during the city’s historic siege.

The rich tapestry of traditional fishing knowledge encompasses a wide range of skills: from constructing buildings and utilitarian objects to identifying suitable wood for boat building and crafting fishing tools like longlines, harpoons, and stafnokari (a type of net). These permanent installations (divaria) and mobile means (boats, gaites), along with the tools, collectively form a cultural heritage that continues to sustain the inhabitants of the region.

In 2022, the traditional fishing practices of the Messolonghi-Aitolikos Lagoons were included in the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Greece.

Related: Treasure From the Sea: The Salt Flats of Messolonghi

Salt has played a crucial role in the history of civilization, enabling food to be preserved over the winters until the modern miracles of refrigeration and preservation. This is no less true in Greece, where the salt used in antiquity likely originated from the salt flats in Messolonghi.

According to ancient sources, salt was even used in the slave trade in antiquity. It is even said that the ancient expression “not worth his salt” came from this practice.

In ancient times, most civilizations also had myths and religious and magic rites involving salt, and Greece was no exception.

With tales of its usage during sacrifices and religious rituals, the history of salt is as exotic as is the amazing Alykes, the salt marsh gardens that extend for miles on end in Messolonghi, Greece.

The unique landscape of the Messolonghi Lagoon, the largest lagoon in the country, is otherworldly, and the region is said to produce 60 percent of the country’s salt. In fact, the Messolonghi–Aetoliko lagoon system is considered to be one of the most important Mediterranean lagoons.

Along the coastal road from Messolonghi towards Aetoliko are the salt lakes known as Alykes of Messolonghi.

They are especially eye-catching as one can see enormous squared-off fields filled with sea water; once the water evaporates, the sea salt is left behind to be collected.

The salt comes from the Mediterranean Sea, of course, which is one of the saltiest seas in the world.

Most seawater has about 35 grams (7 teaspoons) of salt in every 1,000 grams (about a liter, or quart) of water.

The Mediterranean Sea has very high salinity—38 ppt (parts per trillion), or more in some areas. It is almost closed off from the Atlantic Ocean, and there is three times more evaporation than there is rain or freshwater flowing into it from rivers.

Messolonghi salt flats home to unique ecosystem

The salt flat phenomenon in Messolonghi provides an amazing view along the way to the small town of Aetoliko, with flocks of flamingos basking and feeding in the nutrient-rich marshes and bright, white salt pyramids lining the drive.

The fantastic ecosystem of the region is evident upon arrival in Aetoliko which encompasses the small island that separates the two lagoons.

Famous for hosting rare birds and fish species, the lagoons are breathtaking and are dotted with traditional fishing huts built over the water on piles of wood.

The drive to the Troulida islet is one of the most sought-after trips in the area, as the sun sets and reflects off the still waters of the lagoon.